The History of The Burberry Trench Coat
The Burberry trench coat is an iconic garment that has stood the test of time, this outerwear item is renowned for its timeless design, enduring appeal and has come to represent sophistication. Today we will delve into the Burberry Trench Coat's history, design, and cultural significance.
The coat was originally designed by the house of Burberry, a British fashion brand established in 1856. The trench coat embodies the brand's focus on quality craftsmanship and innovation. From 1879 to 1955, The Burberry trench coat rose to prominence, Burberry blended classic tailoring with innovative fabrics, merging British heritage and contemporary elements. The Burberry trench coat and the recognizable tartan pattern continue to be timeless to this day.
The construction of this trench coat is double-breasted, tailored at the waist, and flared to a below-the-knee hemline. The belt is equipped with D-rings for hooking accessories, epaulets, caped back for water runoff, while having a storm flap at the shoulder provides ventilation and deep pockets, seen below!
ABOUT DESIGNER & COUTURE HOUSE:
Thomas Burberry, Burberry's founder, established his first shop, “T.Burberry & Sons.” in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England, specializing in outdoor attire in 1856. In 1879, Thomas Burberry invented a weatherproof fabric called gabardine and had it patented in 1888, this became the foundation for Burberry's trench coats. Burberry accomplished this by weatherproofing the individual strands of cotton and wool fiber, hence the birth of gabardine fabric. The fabric was the most breathable at the time, popular with explorers, aviators, and other adventurous gentlemen.
By 1893, gabardine was so highly regarded among explorers that Burberry was responsible for outfitting notable high-profile expeditions. Norwegian explorer, zoologist, and Nobel Peace Prize winner, Dr. Fritjof Nansen were the first to take the gabardine material to the poles. Additionally, Sir Ernest Shackleton took gabardine on three separate Antarctic treks
DESIGN INFLUENCES:
The exposure of these expeditions resulted in the British army requesting Burberry to design a coat suitable for the battlefield. Thomas Burberry took the existing Tielocken (Burberry's one-button, single-strap design made from gabardine). Burberry updated it with D-rings to carry flasks, maps, grenades, extra chest protection flaps, colored khaki for camouflage and epaulets upon which an officer could display his rank, in addition the cuffs had the option to be tightened, and the buttons at the neck helped protect the wearer from poison gas. Some coats came with a warm, removable liner, which could be utliazied as bedding if needed. Thus the true trench coat was born. Prior to its creation, soldiers were accustomed to wearing long wool overcoats that often proved uncomfortable, poorly fitted, and burdensome. However, the trench coat proved to be a powerful solution, introducing a silhouette that was both shorter and lighter in weight while also providing essential waterproof capabilities
BACKGROUND/TIME PERIOD:
The beginning of the trench coat’s popularity with the elites started in WWI when only those of officer rank were permitted to wear the garment, immediately designating it as a status symbol as seen above. Civilians after the war followed suit as an homage to British national pride. The British officers continued to wear the coat after the war and into WWII. Sooner than later, Burberry coats became so popular that Bruberry offered same-day delivery in London. As a result, the company received a royal warrant, making it an official supplier to the royal family. There are 816 royal warrant holders today (2023). Burberry was credited twice, once as "Weatherproofers" and a second time as the "Outfitters" to the Queen and the Prince of Wales.
In 1920, The Burberry trench coat became a symbol of style and elegance, attracting attention beyond British circles. Hollywood stars and celebrities begin to embrace the iconic garment. The trench coat became popular among silver screen legends such as Humphrey Bograt in Casablanca and Audry Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Hollywood aided in the trench coat becoming a fashionable wardrobe must-have.
Humphrey Bograt in Casablanca
Thomas Newman and Arthur Burberry took over the family business after their father, Thomas Burberry, passed away in 1926. However, in 1955, both sons decided to sell the business to GUS (Great Universal Stores), a British retail conglomerate.
In 1967, Jacqueline Dillemman, a retail buyer at Burberry's Paris location, introduced the Scottish-inspired tartan pattern lining for the trench coats as a part of a window display. The pattern, with its beige base and red, black, and white stripes, was previously never noticed when introduced in 1920. Dillemman's innovative display, revealing the tartan pattern by turning up the coat's hem, sparked overwhelming customer response and a significant increase in sales. This moment marked the emergence of the tartan lining as a distinctive Burberry signature, solidifying it as a house code design thus beginning the evolution of the print.
A few years later, after immense success in 1972, Burberry acquired a factory in Castleford, the new home of the Burberry trench coat, building on their manufacturing presence in the UK, which continues to grow today. After 100 years of the trenchcoat in 1979, 1 out of 5 coats from Britain being exported was a Burberry product.
SILHOUETTE:
Although the trench coat has been termed timeless, the garment under examination from the MET is from 1970. Therefore, the 1970s silhouette will be discussed.
The fashion silhouette of the 1970s differed from the structured and cinched-in waistlines of the previous decade. Instead, a more relaxed and unstructured silhouette was increasingly common, influenced by the increasing popularity of "hippie fashions." Flowing lines, softer tailoring, and a more informal and nonchalant feel defined this relaxed style.
The Burberry trench coat of the 1970s followed this overall trend of the 70s by having a slightly oversized fit. It was designed to provide functionality and comfort while exuding a sense of effortless refinement. The coat's silhouette allowed for layering, adapting various undergarments and clothing items.
Undergarments also played a crucial role in shaping the fashionable silhouette of the 70s. Women's undergarments became less restrictive. Instead, lighter and more comfortable options, such as bralettes and soft bras, were favored. These undergarments provided minimal support and focused more on comfort and free movement.
It is worth noting that the 1970s witnessed a significant shift towards gender-neutral fashion. As unisex fashion and oversized clothing gained popularity, the distinctions between traditionally masculine and feminine forms became blurry. This fashion trend complemented the era is easygoing and unstructured attitude, as evidenced by the trench coat by Burberry.
LEGACY of the GARMENT in FASHION HISTORY:
As of today, Burberry’s trench coat has been recreated by designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and many others on the runway and is still at the signature at Burberry and now made available in various styles, color combinations, and lengths, and with or without many of its original details. The trench coat has lost its use in a military connotation, but it still has the same classic look and appeal.
The Burberry trench coat, a symbol of timeless refinement and practicality, represents the brand's commitment to quality and innovation since its establishment in 1856. The invention of the weatherproof gabardine fabric and the introduction of the tartan pattern lining elevated its status. The coat's silhouette in the 1970s embraced a relaxed and unstructured style, reflecting the era's fashion trends. With its versatile and oversized fit, the trench coat offered functionality and comfort. Today, it continues to captivate as a cherished piece that combines classic tailoring with innovative design, embodying British heritage and style.
Bass-Krueger, Maude. “Vogue Encyclopaedia: The History of the Trench Coat.” Vogue France, April 8, 2019. https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/vogue-encyclopaedia-the-history-of-the-trench-coat.
“Burberry: Trench Coat: British.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, January 2006. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/129586.
Magazine, Smithsonian. “The Classy Rise of the Trench Coat.” Smithsonian.com, May 27, 2015. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/trench-coat-made-its-mark-world-war-i-180955397/.
“Our History.” Burberry. https://us.burberry.com/c/our-history/.
“Royal Warrants.” The Royal Family. https://www.royal.uk/royal-warrants-0.
